Amy Panosetti MONAT

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The story of heat protectant.

We beat our hair up when we style it with heat implements. Curling & Flat irons, even blow dryers have gotten hotter hotter over the years. As more resins, heavy chemicals, silicones & waxes are added into hair care formulations, more heat is needed to get the job done.

Hair is a fine, natural fiber, much like silk. In fact there is only a single amino acid difference in the make up of the protein in the 2 fibers. Hot irons can dry, scorch, or damage hair fibers. The hotter the appliance, the greater the potential for damage. Would you crank your clothes iron to high and then use it on your silk blouse? You shouldn't do it to your hair either.

Heat protectant is a barrier between your hair & your hot iron. It slows the transfer of heat & disperses heat more evenly across the strand. It doesn't block heat, or make heat 'less hot'. Heat protection has very definite limits, if you over heat the heat protectant, it fails & transfers all the heat it is holding into your strand, causing damage, dryness, frizz, maybe singeing your hair and causing breakage. No bueno!

Heat protectant comes in a variety of types, from the heavily chemical to the naturally based. Silicones work as heat protectant, so do Acrylate copolymers, even hydrolyzed wheat protein is a heat protectant. New protectants like the plant based protectant in Monat's 'only for you' blow out cream, 'dermofeel sensolv' (Dermofeel Sensolv is a plant based natural replacement for silicone. It has a silky skin feel suitable for all hair and skin care products. It also helps to detangle hair, adds shine and reduces friction during hair combing and drying.)

A 1998 study looked at the effects of PVP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer, quaternium 70 and hydrolyzed wheat protein on heat damage from a curling iron. They found that all three resulted in 10-20% less damage. 1% solutions of all three were used in the study, so they seem to work at low concentrations.

Heat protectant works by laying a film on your hair strands that buffer the heat contact of your appliance. Keep in mind that heat protectants only reduce the amount of damage caused by heat styling. They can’t completely protect your hair – even the best results show about 50% heat protection at most.

I have ppl ask me if oils can be used as heat protectant. The answer is yes, but with caution, extreme caution. I don't recommend relying on oils for heat protection. Oils have smoke points of varying degrees. some smoke at a very low point, most, if not all vegetable oils smoke at less that 450 degrees fahrenheit. Just like a synthetic heat protectant, vegetable oils will dump the heat buffered quickly into your strands when the smoke point is reached, causing damage.

What is the best for your hair? Use cooler irons & products that do not contain the heavy chemicals, silicones, waxes & resins the make super high heat necessary. Keep your heat appliances moving, never allowing them to rest in one spot. When flat ironing, do more passes, faster, with a lower temperature setting.

If you've been using product & suddenly notice a big change in the texture of your hair, you begin seeing frizz, or ends that don't lay together, or even a crinkly appearance, you are likely seeing the effects of heat damage on your hair. If it isn't severe, moisture is often the needed remedy.

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